Improvement in sewing-machines



. 3 Sheets-Sheet 1. A. C. F. DEROCQUIGNY, D. GANCE & L. HANZO.

Patented March 25, 1862. g

Embroidering Machine.

M a fo SSheets-Sheet 3. A. C. F. DEROCQUIGNY, D. GANCE & L. HANZO.

Embroide ring Machine. I

Patented March 25, 1862.

2 7 L way $35k n P S R E T w the formation of each stitch.

UNITED STATE ATENT FFICE.

A. o. F. DEROUQUIGNY, n. GANOE, AND Louis HANZO, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES.

specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 34.7 18; dated March 25, 1862.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, ALFRED O. F. DEROG- QUIGNY, DOMINIQUE Gwen, and LOUIS H AN- ZO, all of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Machines for Plain Sewing, Embroidering, and Working Button-Holes; and we, do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, in which-- Figure 1 is a front view of a machine with our improvements partly in section. Fig. 2is a vertical section at right angles to Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a plan of the working parts below the bed-plate. Fig. 4 is a horizontal section in the line a; 00 of Fig. 1. Fig.5 is afront view of the mechanism for producing a lateral movement of the needle. Fig. 6 is a back view of the mechanism for lifting the presser during Fig. 7is a back view of a device used in making button-hole stitches and part of the mechanism for operatingit. Figs. 8, 9,10,and 11 are detail views, which willbe hereinafter explained.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.

This invention consists in an improved mode of obtaining and controlling a lateral or sideto-side movement of the perforating-needle of a sewing-machine in working button-holes, in doing that kind ofembroidery known as scalloping, and in any other kind of work in which such movement isnecessary or desirable also, in a peculiarly-applied hook and the mode of operating the same, in combination with the laterally moving perforating needle and a shuttle for causing the needle-thread to take a turn round the said'needle on the face or at the edge of the cloth in working embroidery or in making button-holes; also, in an improved feed-motion for moving the cloth in various directions; also, in an improved mode of lifting the presser to permit the turning of the cloth between successive stitches also, in

certain means of operating the shuttle, where- A is the bed-plate of the machine, supported in a suitable stand and having erected upon it a pillar, B, to the upper part of which is attached, by pivots a a, an arm, D, from one end of which is suspended, by pivots b b, a tube, F, to the bottom of which is secured a box, H, in which and the said tube there are guides for the needle-bar E. Near the box H there is provided in the tube F a V-shaped groove, d, which fits to two horizontal V-shaped guides, 0 0, (see Figs. 2 and'4,) provided in the forked end of an arm, G, which is rigidly secured to the pillar B. The groove d and guidesc care for the purpose of guiding in a horizontal direction the swinging movements which are given to the tube F and box Hfo'r the'purpose of giving a lateral movement to theperforating eye-pointed needle it between every two succeeding perforatingmovements, that it may perforate the cloth alternately in two parallel lines, or, in thecase of working button-holes or working the edge of a piece of cloth, may alternatelypertbrate the cloth at a distance from the edge and pass over or by the edge. The arm D, swinging from the pivots a a, permitsthe necessary movement of the pivot b b to accommodate the horizontal movement of the lower part of the tube F. The box Hcontains the mechanism shown in Fig. 5, through which the reciprocating longitudinal movement of the needle-bar is made to produce its lateral movement, and also contains the mechanism (shown in Fig.1) for operating the takeup and the mechanism (shown in Fig. 6) for lifting the presser to permit. the cloth to be turned upon the bed-plate A'in embroidery or in sewing the circular ends of button-holes.

The needle-barEisconnected,by alink,E, at its upper eud,with one end of a lever, E which works on a fulcrum, e, secured in the arm D, and whose opposite end has suspended from it a'rod, E at the lower end of which is a stud,f, working in the groove f of a cam, 1, on the horizontal mainshaftJof the machine, which shaft is supported in suitable bearings,

h h, below the bed-plate, and may be driven from the rod E and which works upon fixed vertical guides g g, and so prevents the stud ffrom moving in anyother than avertica'l die a ike is rection, but permits the said stud to be moved in that direction by the cam I, which thus through the rod E impartsto the leverE and needle-bar E the necessary movement to carry the needle nthrough and withdraw itfrom the cloth. This movement of the needle-bar and needle is essentially he same as in many other sewing-machines. The lateral movement of the needle'bar E is produced by the following means and in the following manner: The said bar has secured to it and projecting from its rear side a stud, 'i, (shown in section in Figs. 5 and 6, and shown also in Fig. 2,) and this stud works in a groove, 9', in a stationary plate, K, (see Fig. 5,) which is secured to the arm G, and which is situated within the back part of the box H, in the upper'part of which there is a slot for the reception of the said plate, such slot being long enough to permit theosrillating movement of the box and the tube F, which is necessary to the lateral movement of the needle. has a central partition, 13, above which it is The groovej above mentioned open, but below which it is closed, and there are attached to the said plate, by screws 'k it, two sliding switch-plates, L L, which have their lower ends connected with oppositeends of a lever, L, which is attached at the middle of its length by itsfulcrum-pin l to the plate K. The stud t) is caused by the reciprocating longitudinal movement of the needle-bar to pass up and down the groove j on opposite sides of the partition 13, alternately being directed from one to theother side of the said partitions every time it arrives at the top thereof by means of one or other of the switchplatcs L L, which are shifted to make each operate in its turn by the pin '6 striking projections it", provided on each plate near the bottomofthegroovej. Thepin'iinpassingoverthe top of the partition 13 of the. groove causes the needle-bar and needles, the box H, and the tube F all to receive a lateral motion, the tube and box swinging from the pin 1) and the needle-bar from the link E. This lateral movement takes place every time the needle is withdrawn from the cl0th,and it will be understood to cause the needle to pierce the cloth in one and the other oftwolines alternately, and the grooved-plate K and its appendages above described regulate the said lateral movement and the distance between the two lines of perforation, keeping to a handle, H, at the bottom of the box H.

The movement thus produced may be controlled by two stops, m m, provided for the purpose in the bar G, the stop m being a screw which is furnished with a large head, by which it may be turned back and forth by the left hand while the box is moved back and forth between the stops by the right hand.

The stop m consists of a slide attached to a lever, n, 'by which it can be easily moved out of the way to permit the operation of the 'mechanical means of producing the lateral movement, and a set-screw, n, is screwed into the arm to secure the said slide.

19 is the hook by which the needle-thread is caused to take a turnround the needle in the formation of each stitch, and consequently the portion of the needle-thread forming part of one stitch is caused to pass round the portion of the same thread forming part of the next stitch, as shown in Fig. 8, which represents a face view ofa button-hole, the stitching being shown in red color. The only thread visible in this figure is the needle-thread, which is alternately passed through the cloth in the line 15, and passed by the edge 16 of the hole and locked by the shuttle-thread in each case, two

movements of theneedle up and down and two lockings of the thread being required to make a complete stitch. For the sake of perspi-cuity the stitches are represented farther apart than they would be in working button-holes. Fig. 9 represents a similar stitch made entirely in the body of the cloth, the needle passing through the cloth every time it descends instead of passing once through andonce over the edge, and in this figure the operation of the hook is illustrated byits being represented as having caught the thread between the points in the lines 16 and 15, where the last two perforations were made, and havingformed therein a bend which it holds in such position that the needle to in the next descent which takes place in the line 16 will pass into and be partly. surrounded by the said bend, which when the needle is withdrawn again will surround the neck of the loop just left in the cloth. The said book 19 is formed at the extremity of a small elbow-lever. M, of which Fig. 10 is a perspective view. The said lever is pivoted at its elbow by a pin, 18, to an arm, N, which is rigidly secured to a nearly-upright bar, N, (see Figs. 1 and 7,) and has applied to it a spring, g, which holds it against a stop, q, within the said arm, as shown in Fig. 9, which exhibits a section of the said arm. The said spring allows the hook to yieldwhen it passes the'needlein the direction of the arrow 17, (shown in Fig. 9;) but the stop q preventsit yielding in the opposite direction. The

bar N is suspended from one end of a lever, P, which works on a fixed fulcrum, r, at the back of the arm G. and from whose opposite end is suspended by a rod, 3, a cross-tail, s, which carries'a stud, t, which works in a groove, t, in the opposite side of the cam l to that. in which the groove f is formed. The cross-tail is fitted to Vertical guides at u, which prevent it and the stud tfrom workingin any other but a vertical direction, andthe cam consequently operates upon the stud to produce an upward and downward movement of the lever P. The needle-operating leverE receives two complete movements upauddown,and so gives two complete strokes to the needle for every revolution ot' the main shaft J; but the lever I only receives one complete movementup and down. for every'revolution of the shaft. The

. said bar N does not rise and fall vertically, but

obliquely, moving backward and away from the pillar B as it rises and forward and toward the pillar as it descends. The movement of the said bar N is directed thus obliquely by means of two stationary horizontal pins, t) t), which are secured in a hanger, 12 that is rigidly attached to the arm G, and which enter curved oblique slots to w in wings providedon the said bar, said pins being at right angles to each other and the said wings at right angles to each other. Fig. 7 isa view of this bar asit would be seen by a person looking obliquely from the back of the machine. The movement of the bar N, carrying the hook p, is so timed with reference to the movement of the needle a and feeding device that as the needleis rising from the cloth after having' 'iassed a loop. tlirt'iugltit' in the line 16, which is the edge of the hole in the case of a button-hole, or is rising after having euclrained its thread-with the shuttle-thread at the edge of the cloth in em broidering over an edge, the said hook passes,

' descends obliquely across the path of the neodle below the point thereof, and catches the thread between the eye thereof andthe cloth, and the extremity ot'the said hook is brought down firmly upon the cloth 'ata point in front of where the needle left the lastloop, the feedmovement having taken place in the interval between the needle leaving the cloth and the hook coming in contact with it. This is the stage in the operation of the needle and hook represented in Fig. 9, before referred to, The needle, siueompleting its upward movement, is moved laterally tothe line 15, and is shown in the latter figure as ready to enter the cloth in that line. The hook remains in the same position, holding the needle-thread in a'bent form above the cloth while the needle is descending through and rising again from the cloth, and leaving a loop of its thread enchained with the shuttle-thread in the line 15,

and until it has again descended after ajreturn lateral movement to pass through or over the edge of the cloth in the line 16, and just as the point of the needle enters the cloth in that line close to the point of the hook p the said hook rises, leaving the thread bent round the needle, and when'the needle rises again the new loop in its thread remains in the bend which was formed by the hook p and preserves the said bend,'making a stitch-of the form indicated by the numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4 in Fig. 9. In the descent of the hook it is intended not to strike the needle; butin its ascent it comes in stemr a contact with the needle, butis allowed by the spring 19 to yield sufficiently to pass it.

To provide for the lateral movement of the needle in operating as above described the opening provided in the bed A for the passage of the needle has to be elongated. At the end of. this opening, nearest the pillar B, there is attached to the plate a short pin, w which, in working button holes, serves to keep the sides of the hole apart, and which serves as a pivot around which to turn the work in working the circular end of a button-hole or in working eyelet-holes. this pin there is a shoulder, 19, which, in working button-holes, serves as a resting-place for the point of the hook p afterit has caught and bent the thread as before described. This shoulder is necessary to prevent the hook euv tering and catching in the button-hole.

g is a pointed finger attached to an arm, Q, which is adjustable longitudinally in an upright bar, Q, that is fitted to fixed guides Z Z attached to the stationary arm G.' The purpose of this finger is to press upon the cloth to form a center about which it may be moved by the feeding device for the purposeofworking in circles or parts of circles. The longitudinal adjustment of the arm Q enables this finger 1} to be brought nearer to or farther from the needle, and thus to vary the length of the radii of the -('ll(JltS in which the work is performed. The bar Q has a spring, y, ap plied to it to press the finger down upon the cloth, but a cam-lever, Q is so applied in connection with the said bar and in relation to the upper guide, 2, as to enable it to raise and hold up the said bar and hold the finger out of contact with the cloth when straight work is being done, or in any case when it is not desired to use the said finger. The same bar Q carries a longitudinally adjustable guide-bar, t, which may contain guides of various forms and sizes, to conduct a cord or braid from a spool, S, to the point where the work is performed, said cord. or braid to be mechanism in Figs. 1, 2, and 3.) attached to or formed upon the end of an arm, T, which is furnished with cheek-pieces 20 20, having holes drilled iu them to fit easily to a horizontal bar, U, of semicircular form in its longitudinal and of round form in its transverse section, said bar being rigidly secured at its ends toa second horizontal semicircular bar, U,-

which is secured rigidly to a vertical slide, U which is fitted to move up and down in afixed vertical guide-frame, U secured uudcrtlie bed A. The bar U is only made separate from U ()n the back part of in the lower part of the guide-frame U and one prong, 24, of the fork of the said lever carrying a pin, 25, to work in a groove,26, in one side of a cam, W, on the main shaft J, and

the other prong, 27, carrying a pin, 28, to work in agroove, 29, in the opposite side of the said cam, but the said prongs and pins being set so far apart that only one can he in its respective groove at a time. The said pins are, however, made movable in their respective prongs of the lever to allow either one to be placed into or out of'its respective groove. The revolution of the cam produces an oscillatingmovement of the lever V upon its fulcrum, and so gives a reciprocating vertical movement to the slide U and bars U U, and the latter, by imparting a vertical movement to its attached end of the feed-arm T, whilethe do'gTis held vup by'the point 21, causes the dog to have a movement back and forth horizontally,o'r nearly so, upon the said point, by which movement it is made to feed the cloth. The said movement may be varied, accordinglto the amount offeed required, by shifting the connection of the rod V nearer to or farther from the fulcrum of the lever V. The feed-arm T is connected with one end of a lever, X, which works horizontally on a fixed fulcrum, 30, secured in a rigid hanger, X, secured to the bottom of the bed A, the said fulcrum being directly under the point 21, on whichthe feed-dog is supported. By moving the lever X the arm T is moved along the bar U, to which it is always radial, and consequently the direction of said arm is changed by such movement, and as the'feed movement is always parallel with the length of .the said arm and radial t0 the bar U the direction of the feed is changed.

It will thus be seen that according as the length of the bar U forms a greater or less portion of a circle it provides for a greater or less variation in the direction of the feed. The cam-groove. 26 is constructed to operate on its respective pin 25 to produce but one feed movement after every second complete movement of the needle and shuttle, and it is intended to be used more particularly in working,button-holes, but may be used in some kinds of embroidery.

The cam-groove 29 is constructed to operate on its respective pin 28 to producea feed movement after every complete movement of the needle and shuttle, and is to he used in ordinary sewing and most kinds of embroidery.

Y is a'presser having applied to it a spring,

31, and a lifting-lever, Y, tor lifting it by hand,

chines in common use. To provide for its bein g lifted automatically at the proper stage in the making of each stitch to allow the work to be turned easily when desired by the operator, the upper end of the presser is connected,

as shown in Fig. 6, with the arm 32 of a lever of the first class,which works on a fulcrum, 34, secured within the box H, and the other arm,33, of the saidslever is connected by a rod,35,with a lever, 36, of the third class working on a fulcrum, 38, and the latter lever has one edge so operated upon by a pin, 37, attached to the needle-bar that as the needle rises it gives the said lever such a movement that it causes the former lever to lift the presser.

49 is the spool which supplies the needle" thread, supported upon the arm G near the pillar B. i

39 is a guide in front of the arm G, near the top ofthe box, through whichthe needle-th read passes on its way to the take-up. consists of a short arm, 40, with an eye at its extremity attachedto a short horizontal shaft,

41, which is fitted to turn in a bearing in the front of the box H. Within the said box the said shaft has secured to it a toothed pinion,

42, which gears into a toothed-sector, 43, which is arranged to vibrate on a fixed pin, 44, securedin the upper part of the box. This sector contains a slot, 45, which receives a pin, 46, carried by the needle-bar. The movement of this pin 46 with the needle-bar takes it up and down the slot 45, and so produces a vibratory movement of the sector, which imparts through the pinion 42 the necessary movement to the take-up, causingit to rise with but more rapidly than the needle, and-thus draw up the slack of the loops of the needle-thread. To enable the operation of the take-up to be properly regulated, the arm 40 is made adjustable on the shaft 4L to vary its sweep.

' 47 is the shuttle, made with two points to. enable it to pass througha loop of the needlethread in its movement in either direction, and having the middle of its body of nearly cylindrical form, being a little flattened on one side only.

The shuttle-operating mechanism is best shown in Figs. 1 and 3.

Z Z are two shuttle-holders, consisting of;

sockets having their interiors of a form corresponding with the shuttle, and their exteriors cylindrical, and having each a movablejaw, 48,

on the side whose interior is flattened to fit substantially like the pressers of sewingmal provide for the insertion of the bobbin it is The takeup made in two pieces, secured one into the other.

The shuttle-holders, constructed-as above specified, are arranged in line with each other, and with their mouths facing each other in two fixed guides, 54 54, secured to the under side of the bed, such guides being only just large enough to admit the movablejaws ofthe holders when the latter are closed, and each holder is furnished with a cross-head, 55, which works on guides 56 56 under the bed, and which has standing at right angles to it a pin, 57, which works in agroove in one of two cams 58 58 upon the main shaft, said cams being in form precisely the reverse of each other, and that form being such that each shuttleholder in turn will recede from and advance againloward the other, while the other is stationary-,each commenoingtorecede just before the other completes its advance, but making the greater portion ofits rear movement while the other is stationary, one of them making.

this movement during one movement of the needle into and from the cloth and the other during the next movement of the needle into I and from the cloth. By this movement the following manner: As each shuttle-holder completes its advance the hinge of its movable jaw moves beyond its guide 54, and so permits it to open, as shown in the holder Z in Fig. 3,

and as it retires the jaw is closed by passing into its guide 54. Each holderin its advance deposits the opposite end of the shuttle within the other holder, and as it opens in continuing its advance, while the other closesin commencing its retreat, the teat 52 on the jaw of one is removed from its respective hole 53 in the shuttle and the teat 52 on the jaw of the other is made to enter its respective hole 53. The teats prevent any longitudinal slipping of the shuttle in the holder, and the flat side of the shuttle'and corresponding form of the interiors of the jaws of the holders prevent the shuttles turning. By this mode of operating the shuttle and so dispensing with the race-.

way and with the use of all fixed' shuttleguides we are enabled not only to obviate the oiling or otherwise soiling of the thread in the machine, but to use much larger and looser thread for the needle than is commonly used in sewing-machines, which is of great advantage in some kinds of embroidery.

The machine represented is capable of ordinary plain sewing. To put it in condition for this purpose it is necessary to remove the plate K and its appendages, and to secure the tube F and box H in a stationary condition by means of the stops m m.

We do not claim giving the perforating-needle a lateral movement; but

What we claim as our invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. The combination, with the swinging tube F and box H, or other equivalent swinging guides for the needle-bar, of a'grooved plate,

K, a lever, L, two switches,L L, and a pin, '5, the whole applied and operating substantially as herein described.

2. The combination, with a laterally-moving needle and a shuttle, of a book, 10, appliedto operate substantially as herein described with reference to-Figs. 8 and 9.

3. The feed mechanism composed of the grooved dog T, supporting-point 2], arm T, and curved bar U, the said bar deriving a reciprocating motion perpendicular to the bed of the machine, and the said arm being adjustable along the curved bar, substantially as and for the purpose herein specified. 

